Monday, August 29, 2011

15 – Hartland Quay to Morwenstow

Stage Distance: 8 miles (Total Distance: 117 miles)

Bank Holiday Monday and the weather is glorious.  Today's stage and the next one (Morwenstow to Bude) are reputed to be the hardest on the whole South West Coast Path.  Today's stage has 3 or 4 500ft climbs and descents back down to sea level.

Low tide at Screda Point means that the rock formations on the beach are clearly visible unlike the day back in May when the tide was fully in.

  Rock climbers are busy on Screda Point as we set off at 11:15.  The path follows the cliff to the landward side of  St. Catherine's Tor.  From here, there are clear views to Swansford Hill and beyond.  The path soon reaches Speake's Mill Mouth with more beach rock formations and a very impressive waterfall.  The views of Lundy are the clearest we've seen since we started on the Coast Path.  The route skirts the bottom of Swansford Hill and through the valley before climbing back onto the cliffs.  A brief rest above Hole Rock and then it's on to Mansley Cliff backed by fields of newly-bailed hay.  There follows a short distance on lanes at Sandhole Cross before heading back to the cliffs and Nabor Point.  From here, Hartland Quay is visible in the distance.  A well-placed picnic table at Nabor Point means it must be lunch time.  We're feeling rather pleased with ourselves at this stage as it hasn't felt too tiring so far.  Beyond Gull Rock and Knapp Head we catch the first view of the descent (and ascent) at Welcombe Mouth.  Not feeling so smug now.  The path winds steeply down to Welcombe Mouth, a very pretty spot with a fast-flowing stream running onto the wide beach.  A brief rest and then back up the 400 feet to the cliff top.  Before long, it's down again to Marsland Mouth, past the poet Ronald Duncan's hut and across the bridge over the Old Mill Leat.  On the far side of the bridge a wooden sign informs us that we're now entering Cornwall!  After a brief moment to contemplate this achievement it's back to reality and another climb to the cliff tops and, inevitably, down again into Litter Mouth, with it's dramatic Gull Rock and Devil's Hole.  A couple of climbers are sitting at the top of the rocks having a rest - rather them than us.  The path climbs again from Litter Mouth to Henna Cliff before descending to Yeol Mouth.  Another climb and Morwenstow Church breaks into view.  There's still one more down and up to contend with,Vicarage Cliff being the final ascent before we turn inland along the lane back to the Rectory Farm Tea Room (now closed for the day, so we made the right decision in having the cake at the start when we parked).  18:00 by the time we reach the car, which means we've averaged a very embarrassing 1 mile per hour.  Must have been a long lunch.

Logistics: Parked one car at Rectory Farm in Morwenstow and drove the second car back to Hartland Quay
GPS Track: 15 - Hartland Quay to Morwenstow  (20110829).kmz 
Images: 15 - Hartland Quay to Morwenstow